What do I do with those scapes you gave me?
Leave the Bulb and Go Straight to the
Top with Garlic Scapes from
The Oregonian, June 12, 2012
The first green asparagus of spring gets a whole lot of
love. But just a month or two behind it, there's another green shoot that
deserves its own fanfare: the garlic scape.
Garlic scapes, also known as garlic curls, or, adorably, whistles, are the
twisted green tops of garlic plants. They're generally cut to about 8-inch
lengths, ranging from slightly bent stalks to irregular curlicues. Scapes are
harvested in late spring/early summer (the season is hard to predict and fairly
brief) using a neat little gardener's trick: Trim off the tips before the
seedpods swell and mature, and in exchange that energy goes toward making
larger garlic bulbs underground. And, as an added bonus, you get to eat the
scapes.
Like garlic itself, scapes pack a punch when raw (though they're not quite as
intense as the bulb). You can use this to your advantage, adding a fine mince
to dishes that will benefit from the scapes' strong flavor. But with just a bit
of heat, scapes' harshness softens, leaving a mellower garlic note, along with
their spring-green taste. Scapes, like spring ramps, work especially well when
paired with mild ingredients that let their flavor shine through: Cook them up
with eggs, pasta or creamy dairy-rich dishes. For sheer simplicity, brush them
with oil and toss them directly on the grill.
Scapes are easily turned into a pungent pesto -- use it sparingly raw, or
soften the flavor by pairing it with hot pasta or broiling it on slices of
artisan bread. You can even bathe scapes in vinegar for a pungent pickle.
Whatever the preparation, scapes can be trimmed into bite-sized lengths for
easier dining. But though it's a bit unwieldy, I argue it's sometimes far more
fun to leave them as they are, like little green scraps of ribbon from your own
spring garden party.
-- Deena Prichep is a Portland freelance writer and radio producer who
blogs at
mostlyfoodstuffs.blogspot.com.
Garlic Scape
Potato Pizza With Walnuts and Blue Cheese
Makes 4
servings
Although
potatoes seem like a strange pizza topping, they work surprisingly well,
providing a nice creamy feel without much cheese, and a good backdrop for the
garlicky scapes.
1 16-ounce ball of pizza dough, homemade or store-bought
3 medium-size waxy red or yellow potatoes
Olive oil
Salt
1/4 cup walnuts (no need to toast, as they'll toast on
the pizza)
1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese
6 to 8 garlic scapes
Preheat oven
(with a pizza stone if you have one) to 500 degrees for 30 minutes. If your
pizza dough has been refrigerated, let it sit, covered, at room temperature for
about the same amount of time.
Place the
potatoes in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and simmer for a
few minutes, until they can be easily pierced with a fork. Remove and let cool
slightly, then slice into 1/4-inch-thick rounds (the potatoes can be cooked in
advance).
When the
dough and oven have come to temperature, place the dough on a lightly floured
countertop, and press outward into a thick disk, leaving a 1-inch unpressed area
around the edge. Pick up the disk and let it drape over the backs of your
hands, letting gravity help you stretch it into a 14-inch circle. If the dough
resists, let it relax for a few minutes, then try again. If you have a pizza
stone, place the stretched dough on a peel (or overturned baking sheet or
cutting board) that's lightly dusted with semolina or other flour. Otherwise,
just build the pizza on a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet.
Lay the
potato slices evenly over the dough, leaving a 1-inch rim of crust along the
edge, and then drizzle them with a little olive oil and sprinkle lightly with
salt. Scatter the walnuts and blue cheese over the potatoes. Toss the garlic
scapes with a drizzle of olive oil and salt, then scatter the scapes over the
pizza.
If using a
pizza stone, give the peel or sheet a little shake to loosen the pizza and make
sure it hasn't stuck, then open the oven and gently tip the pizza onto your
preheated stone (or, if not using a stone, simply transfer the pizza to the
oven). Bake until the crust bubbles and browns, and the scapes are cooked,
about 10 minutes.
Savory
Scape-Goat Pudding With Wild Mushrooms
Makes 6 servings
Tapioca
usually surfaces in desserts, but chef Aaron Woo, of Northeast Portland's
Natural Selection restaurant, gives the pudding a savory turn with goat cheese
and garlic scapes. He fancies it up further with oil-poached scapes (optional,
but a nice touch), and a sauté of wild mushrooms. The pudding can be prepared
in advance and refrigerated, then brought to room temperature and baked as
instructed. Although it makes an elegant first course for six, it can be
bolstered with a salad and crusty loaf of bread for a main dish.
Oil-poached scapes
6 garlic scapes
1 to 2 cups olive oil
Pinch sea salt
4 strips of lemon zest
Pudding
1/3 cup small pearl tapioca (not instant)
2 cups whole milk (divided)
1 cup heavy whipping cream (divided)
2 garlic scapes (or more if they're small), finely minced
8 ounces soft goat cheese, such as chèvre
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 egg yolks
1/4 cup lemon juice
Mushrooms
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 to 3 cups wild fresh mushrooms, roughly chopped if
large or left whole if small (see note)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To make
oil-poached scapes: Place the 6 scapes in a small saucepan (sort of wind them
around to make them fit if needed), and add olive oil to cover. Add the salt
and lemon zest, bring to a simmer, then turn off the heat, set aside to come to
room temperature then strain scapes and set aside. (The oil may be re-used
wherever the garlicky flavors would be welcome.)
To make
pudding: In a large saucepan, place the tapioca pearls and 1 cup of the milk.
After an hour, preheat the oven to 350 degrees, and butter six 4-ounce ramekins
(or a larger soufflé pan).
Add the remaining
1 cup milk to the tapioca, along with 1/2 cup of the cream, and the minced
garlic scapes. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring constantly, until
it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Reduce the heat to low, and
cook until the tapioca is cooked through and translucent, about 10 more
minutes. Turn off the heat and crumble in the goat cheese, stirring to combine,
and season with salt and pepper to taste (the residual heat should be enough to
melt the goat cheese, but if not just put it back over low heat for another few
minutes).
In a mixer,
whisk together the egg yolks and lemon juice until the mixture thickens. Fold
into the tapioca mixture. Whip the remaining 1/2 cup of cream until it forms
stiff peaks, and fold that in as well. Transfer to your prepared pan(s), and
bake until it puffs slightly but is still pale and trembling, about 5 minutes
for ramekins, 20 minutes if you bake it in a larger pan. Remove and let cool
slightly.
While the
pudding is baking, prepare the mushrooms.
To make
mushrooms: In a sauté pan, heat the olive oil over high heat, then add the
mushrooms. Let sit until the liquid from the mushrooms releases and evaporates,
and the mushrooms brown; stir and let color on other sides. Repeat until the
mushrooms are well cooked and flavorful. Season to taste with salt.
Serve the
puddings with the mushrooms and the poached scapes.
Note: Chef
Woo favors porcinis and morels, which are coming into season around this time,
but any wild mushrooms will do.
